How Cantonese became mainland China’s regional cuisine of choice

In a restored siheyuan courtyard residence, nestled amid 600-year-old hutong alleyways in Beijing’s Caochang neighbourhood, diners dip porcelain spoons into steaming bowls of double-boiled black Silkie chicken, conpoy and bamboo-pith soup. Overseen by celebrity culinarian Huang Jinghui, better known as chef Fei, Yan…

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