Soaring columns, 17 steaks, art deco panache: Does Rockpool still have what it takes?

Suited maitre d’. Soft but audible jazz. Fat hissing on hot coals and art deco panache. On a wet Tuesday night, everything is luxury-steakhouse business as usual at Rockpool Bar & Grill, a temple to expense accounts and the cow since 2009. Except … hang on a minute. What’s this? The menu is smaller! It seems half th…

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