Byron has changed, they say, and in some ways it has. But some things are the same, too. This is Bundjalung Country, cared for by Arakwal Bumberlin people, and the connection of the locals to the sea and the hinterland endures, as does Byron’s countercultural spirit. Byron Farmers Market still runs on Thursdays, and as swish as some of the new cafes are, you’ll find herbs and elixirs alongside (or in) your cold brews and lattes, and the low-intervention drinking