The tufts of white bobbing through the blue sky above New Norfolk, a 40-minute drive from Hobart, are not unseasonable summer snowflakes but rather the seed pods of willow trees, which punctuate this River Derwent town. They fly over Saturday market stallholders at Arthur Square, who gather with trinkets and handmade treasures, en route to The Agrarian Kitchen, spread over two hectares in the complex that was once Tasmania’s only mental hospital.