Mother Chu’s Taiwanese Gourmet was 25 years old when I (belatedly) joined its fan club. This was back in 2016, when chef Toby Wilson described the short distance between his Ghostboy Cantina pop-up and the Chinatown institution as “pure upside”, and I finally registered this place as something special. Wilson’s enthusiasm for Mother Chu’s beef noodle soup and Taiwanese breakfasts converted me; a decade on, I’ve archived memories from many visits.