The queues started on Dubudang’s opening day in May, but this Epping restaurant’s story began three decades ago – at a tofu shop in Busan, South Korea. Co-owner Hyunjoon “Leo” Joo recalls his mother preparing soybeans before sunrise, and the countless hours his father spent behind the tofu press. His parents’ store, Kongsarang, translates as “love for soybeans” in Korean, and Joo now continues the family craft in Sydney.