Kyoto – At Kodaiji Wakuden, a two-Michelin-starred kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) restaurant in Kyoto, steps from Yasaka Shrine, my meal features hollowed-out yuzu filled with bai (Japanese ivory shell snail) and urui (plantain lily), crab sushi and a side of soramame (broad beans) — an ingredient associated with Setsubun, the February holiday best known for its mamemaki (bean-throwing) ritual to drive away demons, while also marking an unofficial transition toward warmer days.