When Mini Gaundar was a child in Fiji, she’d track through the canefields on her way to school with a packed lunch of roti rolled around pumpkin and shredded coconut. The granddaughter of an indentured sugarcane farmer who’d been enticed to Fiji under British colonial rule, Gaundar grew up on a sugarcane plantation with six siblings, and their lunchboxes were typical of many Fijians with South Asian heritage, tasting both of a home adopted and one left behind.