Rogun, Tajikistan – From Dushanbe, the journey to Rogun begins like many journeys in Tajikistan. You approach the edges of the capital with its wide, quiet streets and tidy parks, then the urbanisation begins to fade. The road turns into a long ribbon that climbs and bends between rocky hills and small villages, before the Vakhsh River appears below like an angry blue thread slicing through the valley.