It’s Tuesday evening, and the line outside a new ramen shop on Russell Street is stretching down the pavement. There are 11 other ramen shops on the same street, but it’s Ginza Kagari’s soup that these diners want. A bowl of creamy chicken broth known as tori paitan, it’s shipped directly from Tokyo, where Kagari’s HQ is, a logistical feat to ensure “made in Japan” status.