There was an outpouring of grief when late-night Chinatown diner Ling Nan closed in 2020 after nearly three decades, but its legendary XO pipis with Chinese doughnuts – nourishment for generations of over-refreshed night owls and shift workers – live to fight another day. It reopened on Lonsdale Street in late 2021, but most of the excellent staff and the menu remained intact, and the kitchen is still doing its thing until the wee small.