At 103 The Store in Roxburgh, Otago, cyclists click-clack up to the counter, their cleats tapping a rhythm that is the soundtrack of this trip. After hours cycling the high cliffs of the Roxburgh Gorge Trail, where purple thyme hugs the jagged rock face and every sharp turn requires the confidence of Cadel Evans, satisfied riders stretch out their legs, order coffees or cold drinks, house made cinnamon-drenched scrolls, savoury scones, or a slice of New Zealand’s famous lolly cake